Often dubbed the culinary capital of Piedmont, Alba becomes the epicenter for all things white truffle, one of the most expensive edibles in the world, in October and November when foodies beat a path to this medieval gem. Here’s why they do.
The White Truffle Fair comes to town. On Saturdays and Sundays from October 6 to November 25, Alba is host to the famous International Alba White Truffle Fair, where the largest of these precious tubers are on offer for mega-bucks—last year’s record was €75,000 euros for an 850-gram tartufa bianca, and average kilo price was €6000. You can purchase these gnarled gems at lower weights, of course, and all truffles for sale are checked for quality by a commission that buyers can consult with. Truffles over 10 grams come with an ID and in a numbered bag. During the fair you can also refine your truffle savvy at sensory analysis workshops and sample the offerings of top chefs cooking up regional specialties, along with local wines.
The fair highlights other Piedmont delicacies too. Area specialties like cheeses, hazelnuts, chocolates and grappas are showcased, and on the last weekend, as a lead-in to the holiday season, artisanal panettoni from bakeries in and around Alba.
Alba has great dining options with incredible white truffle menus. Piedmont’s only Michelin three-star restaurant, Piazza Duomo, is located in Alba where you can sample master chef Enrico Crippa’s beautifully composed and nature-inspired dishes. In addition to the white truffle menu there are a la carte items like scallops and sea urchins, and sea bass with caviar. Its sibling restaurant, La Piola (in the same building), has a more casual vibe; the seasonal and market-driven menu written on a blackboard focuses on Piedmontese dishes. In nearby Madonna di Como Locanda del Pilone with one Michelin star has a special truffle menu and scrumptious a la carte options like chicory bottoni (button-shaped pasta) filled with regional Camembert, and venison with anchovies and apples. White truffles are available for different courses with a €38 supplement.
The nearby wine roads of Barolo country. Revel in the rural splendor of Piedmont’s Le Langhe landscape, part of which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, on one of the Strada del Barolo’s scenic routes. For outstanding vistas travel from the medieval hamlet of Verduno, where the Belvedere Park offers sweeping views, to Diano d’Alba--there's a striking countryside panorama from the ruins of the town castle. Drive the western hills of Barolo country from Alba to Dogliani, a 37-kilometer route, taking in the evocative hamlets, castles and centuries-old palazzi along the way. The town of Barolo itself is on the route. Here you can stop by the Wi-Mu, the Barolo wine museum in the former Falletti castle, also home to the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo, where you can learn about the famous wine and sample it. On both routes there are numerous wineries and cellars to visit.
The fabulous country hotels. Castello di Guarene-Relais & Châteaux takes country living to new levels of lavishness. A magnificent 18th-century estate that was the former home of the counts of Rovero, the property is described by its maitre de maison, Rita Pili, as palace living in the Piedmont vineyards. You can book truffle hunting excursions during your stay and relax afterward with treatments at the spa and wellness center. The Palas Cerequio is actually a village restored by noted Barolo producer Michele Chiarlo. Located in a Barolo vineyard, the resort has lodging options that include both chic traditional and sleek modern suites.